What's on in Paris in Fall/Winter 2009

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23rd September 2009 to 4th January 2010.

Renoir in the 20th Century 
Here is the star exhibition this fall, showing the little-known artistic production of Renoir, with 100 paintings, drawings and sculptures brought together from public and private collections around the world. To underline his influence on the French art scene in the first half of the twentieth century, Renoir's work from the collections of Picasso, Matisse, Maillol and Bonnard will be shown alongside their own as a testimony of Renoir's influence on them.
“I am starting to know how to paint. It has taken me over fifty years’ work to get this far and it’s not finished yet” declared Renoir in 1913, while a major retrospective exhibition of his work was being held at the time, at the Bernheim Jeune gallery in Paris. Guillaume Apollinaire praised him as the “the greatest living painter”; “Renoir grows greater all the time. His latest paintings are always the most beautiful. And the most youthful.”

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais
3 Ave du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8th
Phone: 01 44 13 17 17
Metro: Champs-Elysées Clémenceau
Open: 10:00 to 17:35
Closed: Mondays
Price: 10/11 Euros

20th October 2009 to 4th February 2010

James Ensor
"They have grouped me mistakenly with the Impressionists who were the makers of ‘plein air’, attached to light tones and the shape of light; but the deformations inflicted to the line by light were not understood before me. No importance was given to this, and the painter followed only his vision.  The Impressionist movement leaves me cold.”
Contrary to Monet who conceived light as a multitude of fleeting effects, Ensor perceived light as the fundamental unifier that led him into his mystical visions from which de drew his 'Christ's aura' series or his 'The Sensitivity of Light' series.  “I am ennobled by Light,” said Ensor, who spent his childhood on the North Sea coast. This exhibition aims to underline his conception of art as continuity as well as a fracture, the way light produces wholeness and causes fracture. Continuity came from Naturalism and Symbolism as well as the tradition of his home town's carnivals with its masks, grotesque and lurid disguises and satires that he later used as provocation to revenge himself from the misunderstanding of the critics. Fracture was his breaking-away from Impressionism by use of violent and contrasting colors, as well as distortion of forms to express intense feelings of drama, irony, and self-derision, even introducing words to emphasize the narrative in his paintings.  He, therefore, is a precursor of the Expressionist movement.

Orsay Museum
62, rue de Lille/1 rue de la Légion d'Honneur, Paris 7th
Metro: Musée d'Orsay or Solférino
Open: 10:00 to 18:00
Thursdays until 21:45 and Sundays from 9:00 to 18:00
Closed: Mondays
Price: 8.50 Euros (Museum + temporary exhibitions).
Photography gallery, ground floor.
Information at
01 40 49 47 50

11th September 2009 to 11th January 2010
Jan van Eyck
The Brukenthal collection comprises 50 masterpieces of the 15th and 16th century Flemish masters. This includes great figures such as Pieter Bruegel, with his complex and detailed landscapes that seized forever the atmosphere of his epoch; Hans Memling, the great portraitist with his inoffensive sereneness. And finally Jan Van Eyck, who was held high in the esteem of Duke Philip the Good of Burgundy as well as of the art critics as early as 1454, and was reputed to be a learned man, versed in the classics and Latin. His paintings, whether scenes of interiors or portraits, are so convincing that they led David Hockney to believe that he must have used optical devices such as a 'camera obscura' in paintings such as the Arnolfini wedding. However, the mastery is not only in its photographic exactness, but also of the sensitive use of light in the interiors and the realistic touch in his portraits.

Jacquemart-André Museum
158, boulevard Haussmann, Paris 8th
From Etoile take Avenue de Friedland and continue until boulevard Haussmann. You can walk this distance from the Etoile (approx. 10 minutes).
Metro: Miromesnil or Saint-Philippe du Roule
Open: Every day from 10:00 to 18:00
Price: 8 Euros

The Jacquemart-André Museum also has a very charming café/restaurant and a library.

17th September 2009 to 1st April 2010
Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese... Venetian Rivalry
Choosing identical themes dear to the trio of the Venice ‘Golden Age’ painters Titian, Tintoretto and Veronese, their creation is confronted in this exhibition as a triologue among the three rival painters who inspired each other. Titian, who liberated from Mannerism in old age, became increasingly inventive and dramatic; on the other hand Tintoretto's dynamic energy and Veronese's more decorative interpretation of these themes, while differing in execution, have many similarities due to their common roots.
The exhibition is organized chronologically and thematically in order to convey their evolution after 1540. A multimedia presentation of Titian's "Virgin and child with rabbit" is presented in the Richelieu wing, 2nd Floor of the Louvre.

Visit the mini site:

Musée du Louvre
Entrance through the 'Pyramide du Louvre'
Paris 1st
Metro: Palais-Royal/Louvre
: every day 9:00 to 17:30
Closed: Tuesdays
Price: 7.50 Euros before 15:00; 5.00 Euros after 15:00 and all day Sundays.
Combined ticket (permanent and temporary exhibitions): 11.50 Euros before 15:00, 9.50 Euros after 15:00 and all day Sundays.
Special ticket for the temporary exhibitions in the Napoleon Hall: 7 Euros.
Free entrance the first Sunday of each month.
Phone: 33 (0)1 40 20 51 51

7th October 2009 to 7th February 2010
From Rembrandt to Vermeer - The Dutch Golden Age
Sixty paintings, thirty drawings and watercolors, etchings, and other art objects make up this impressive exhibition in Paris' Pinacothèque featuring the Rijksmuseum's 17th century art collection.  Centered mostly on Rembrandt and Vermeer, the exhibition brings out the freedom of the two masters compared to the genre painters of their epoch.  Rembrandt, the most influential painter of his time, achieved through chiaroscuro an unequalled depth of human feeling, emotion and soulfulness, whether painting a portrait or a religious scene. Vermeer's is the world of the perfect vision sublimed through the extraordinary use of true color, humanized by everyday scenes.
Pinacothèque de Paris
28, place de la Madeleine
75008 Paris
Open: Every day 10:30 to 18:00
Metro: Madeleine
Price: 9 Euros
Phone: 01 42 68 02 01